As the new year begins, Zenith launches the Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar at LVMH Watch Days in Miami. The new timepieces are streamlined, more stylish versions of the iconic traditional timepieces, and feature new movements.
With its harmonious dial design and easy-to-read information display, Zenith’s triple-date chronograph has been an important piece in the El Primero collection for decades. In fact, the El Primero automatic high-frequency chronograph movement originally released in 1969 was designed to accommodate triple calendar and moon phase functions. However, a direct chronograph was the preferred version, so the calendar version was initially shelved. But not for long.
The new Chronomaster Original Triple Calendar aims to take the world by storm once again. This best luxury watch is based on the blueprints of the original A386 from 1969 and features a 38mm case in its original proportions. The watch does not have a bezel like the original design and is powered by the El Primero 3610 automatic high-frequency 1/10-second chronograph movement. The watch vibrates 36,000 times per hour and, in addition to its chronograph function, offers a full calendar with day, date and month indications, as well as a moon phase display. The column-wheel chronograph movement has a 60-hour power reserve and is equipped with a stop-seconds mechanism.
Looking around the dial, you can see the 1/10 second readout on the outer edge, the 60-second counter at 3:00, the 60-minute counter at 6:00, and the small seconds at 9:00. There is also a central chronograph hand that rotates once every 10 seconds. The day of the week and the month are displayed symmetrically in the window above the counter.
The movement features a new star-shaped rotor with a satin finish, visible through the transparent sapphire crystal case back. A domed sapphire crystal protects the dial and features an anti-reflective coating for easy reading.
The fashion men watch is available in three versions, all available with a black calfskin strap or a three-row metal bracelet. One version has a silver opaline dial with black counters, the second version has a slate gray opal dial with silver counters, and the third version – perhaps my favorite – has an olive green toned Sunday pattern dial with Silver counters. Silver counter.
This year, Richard Mille continues its collaboration with polo player Pablo Mac Donough with the RM 53-01 Pablo Mac Donough Tourbillon, which houses a foolproof horological mechanical movement in a black carbon TPT case. Pure Richard Mille for this masculine and ultra-sporty timepiece.
Richard Mille was a loyal friend. Its ambassadors are not just the men and women who wear their watches for photographs during a certain season. These are real, lasting collaborations. Rafael Nadal, Felipe Massa, Sebastien Ogier, Bubba Watson and Pablo Mack · Dono (Pablo Mac Donough) is not just an ambassador, before becoming the brand image of Richard Mille (Richard Mille), they are all relatives of Richard.
The last watch to emerge from these watchmaking and sporting friendships? RM 53-01 Pablo MacDonough Tourbillon. There is a long story between polo and watchmaking… It begins with Jaeger-LeCoultre and its famous Reverso watch, whose famous reversing case was designed at the time to protect the “glass within glass” “Save from the watches worn by athletes in competitions… the rest of the story will continue with Piaget and its famous Polo watch, and then Hublot and its Infinity Limited series.
Richard Mille has been Pablo Mac Donough’s partner since 2010. This man is literally one of the best polo players in the world. Back then, during their first collaboration, Richard Mille envisioned a copy men watch with a “caparison” case that would protect the watch during a polo match, which can be particularly violent!
This new watch from Richard Mille has been designed in the same spirit. Offers polo players the possibility to wear their watches during matches! But, as you can imagine, polo is one of the most demanding sports on a tourbillon movement (we advise all sane watch lovers not to wear their favorite watch during games). With or without swirls! ).
Sudden turns, violent swings, violent collisions between horse and rider: so much power goes well beyond the norm usually encountered in other sports. Polo, the “king of sports”, is a very elegant but also very physical game.
It’s not a miracle that one of polo’s greatest champions is able to wear a watch, and it’s a tourbillon, fully operational, it’s the product of years of research and research into the performance’s resistance in the face of violent conflict. As experts in the field, the brand designed the RM 53-01 around one goal: to make it extremely durable while exalting its performance.
“Polo is a dangerous game, with shocks and impacts. It’s a game of great grace but also very physical,” explains Richard Mille. Pablo has broken bones many times during his career. Considering this At one point, I asked our team to design a best fashion watch that could withstand the various shocks during a polo match, but the movement had to be visible”.
Realizing that standard crystal could not provide the necessary resistance against the blows of a mallet, the brand’s engineers collaborated with Stettler, a great specialist in the field of sapphire crystal, inspired by the practice of laminated glass for automotive production. The use of this crystal mirror composed of two sapphire crystal mirrors and polyethylene film is the first time in the watchmaking industry. By the way, same as RM…
In the face of the strong shock wave from the impact of the mallet, the glass will crack, but not crack. The glass is treated with UV protection and anti-reflection to protect it from the external environment and is an exclusive patent of Richard Mille.
The case is machined from carbon TPT with serrations of a reinforced structure, an armored case with an astonishing and almost unalterable resistance. Recognized for its excellent resistance to microfractures and microcracks, this material is increasingly used by RM.
Any enemy with whirlwind motion (beyond the gravitational effects it compensates for) is a shock. What is Richard Mille’s solution? Movement suspended by cables. The atypical architecture of the building required the development of two slabs. The first, called the peripheral, is attached to the frame and supports the tensioning mechanism. The second, called the central, is connected to the peripheral plate by cables and contains all the movement’s gear trains as well as the winding mechanism.
The central plate, like a spider in the middle of a spider’s web, rests on 2 braided steel cables with a diameter of 0.27mm. These cables (see photo below) are woven into a three-dimensional structure through 10 pulleys, connected to 4 tensioners. The watchmaker himself puts the cables in tension by turning a splined screw in the center of each tensioner. Richard Mille copy
By ensuring its constant tension, “this pulley system guarantees a perfect balance of the whole. The grade 5 titanium used in the suspended movement and its components (bridges and double bridges) increases rigidity while ensuring a very smooth running of the gear train and optimal shock absorption,” the brand said in its press release.
The Swiss high-end watchmaker has absolutely nothing to hide – and this new case design proves it.
The headquarters and seat of fake Greubel Forsey in La Chaux-de-Fonds is one of the most fascinating buildings in the entire Swiss watch industry. The centerpiece of the facility is a 17th-century farmhouse, purchased in 2007 by company founders Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey. Throughout the late 2000s and early 2010s, the duo worked gradually to expand the building into its current form, which features a tall modernist glass-walled studio swelling from the side of the once quaint log home.
When I visited Greubel Forsey’s manufacturing plant a few years ago, I was amazed to see how differently the two parts of the building were designed. On one side you have all the modern finishes of a contemporary high end watchmaker, clean rooms and on the other side a beautifully restored original 300 year old farmhouse. Watchmakers, craftsmen, and administrative and marketing staff mingle between the two parts of the building throughout the day at zero intervals, even if half the walls of their workspaces might bring you splinters.
The choice to create this building was deliberate, to highlight the two worlds that Greubel Forsey timepieces occupy. The company’s traditional approach to decoration emphasizes old world craftsmanship and craftsmanship – Philippe Dufour is a fan – and then the watch engineering part, and no one in the Swiss watch world has been as avant-garde and progressive as Greubel Forsey this century. These two aspects have always distinguished Greubel Forsey’s watches, and they are clearly reflected in the architecture of Greubel Forsey’s home.
Luckily, Greubel Forsey has re-emphasized architecture in today’s release of the 24-second tourbillon, a new timepiece that opens up a whole new type of case design for the company, as well as a new movement, even if it may have some familiar element.
What’s new at Greubel Forsey? The Tourbillon 24-Seconds Architecture represents the dawn of a new era for Greubel Forsey, which has gradually taken hold over the past 18 months since the appointment of new CEO Antonio Calce. During that time, we’ve seen the company make some small strategic shifts and structural changes, many of which are reflected in today’s new release.
One of Greubel Forsey’s biggest news so far this year, for example, has been the successful buyback of all outside holdings, including the 20% that Richemont acquired back in 2006. As of today, ownership of the company is split between founders Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey, and new CEO Calce.
Other notable moves include the decision to use only plant-based straps, rather than exotic leather, on the new Greubel Forsey watches. The company has also made a noticeable shift away from newly released precious metals to focus on building its newly identified “Convexe Collection” with lightweight titanium. Another achievement is the company’s desire to produce more watches each year—Greubel Forsey plans to reach 200 for the first time in 2022.
Tourbillon 24 Seconds is an open book In many respects, the 24-second tourbillon architecture represents the realization of Greubel Forsey’s new aesthetic basis, which was not possible just a few short years ago. Looking at the case itself, it features a titanium chassis with numerous sapphire crystal inserts that act as windows to the movement. Greubel Forsey had previously experimented with separate small sapphire crystal windows in the cases of various watches in 2007, but the tourbillon 24-second architecture was the first time the entire periphery of the watch was so exposed (outside, well, in a full sapphire crystal case), allowing visibility and light to enter the movement from all angles.
When I saw this fake watches at discount in person a few weeks ago, I was particularly attracted by the sapphire crystal window at six o’clock in the case, which is located between the new three-dimensional “variable geometry” lug design, making it unprecedented. Continuously observe the high-speed operation of Gooper’s unique 24-second tourbillon from a different angle.
The case is much more complex than simply combining titanium and sapphire crystal into one design. Greubel Forsey describes the case shape as a “frustum of cone”, which is a delicate way of AP geometry to mean that it is shaped like a hollow cone with no tip, like a lampshade. The convex profile was developed to enhance the ergonomic wrist feel of this model, but the real fun comes when you open the calipers and start measuring the watch. Because the case of the tourbillon 24-second mechanism is so dramatically inverted, the measured diameter of the caseback itself is almost two millimeters (47.05mm) larger than the measured bezel width alone (45mm). One of the benefits of this design is that not only is the watch comfortable to wear (and lightweight, thanks to the use of titanium), but it also looks more compact on the wrist than you might think (the watch is 16.8mm thick at its farthest point). Thankfully, unlike some previous examples like the Tourbillon 24 Secondes, the tourbillon doesn’t have a spherical window into which to slot into your arm.
Before delving into the movement, I want to point out some other aesthetic differences of the 24-second tourbillon architecture. Most notably, Greubel Forsey has introduced a new typeface for its characteristic ‘brand values’, which are usually listed and embossed on places like the rotor, case or case back of the brand’s watches. Instead of the basic sans-serif typeface the company has used in the past, the Tourbillon 24-Seconds architecture uses a font clearly inspired by the world of science fiction, an appropriate choice for such an unorthodox watch design.
Greubel Forsey also appears to have adjusted the motto for the new watches, favoring a shorter single word on the watch’s inner bezel. As far as I know, innovation, passion, and science are all new additions to the listed values, but I can’t lie, I always get a little laugh from lengthy French phrases like Noblesse Esthétique and Oeuvre Unique on Greubel’s Forsey’s watch . I’ll also say that while I think the new Blade Runner-style font fits perfectly with the futuristic aesthetic of the Tourbillon 24-second architecture, I hope they have options for future applications because I can’t imagine it going with the Every future version of Greubel Forsey works together. (It does, however, complement the dense phobia-inducing motifs on the front and back of the mainspring barrel.)
The movement and dial of the tourbillon 24-second architecture are the same. For all intents and purposes, there are no dials on the watch, just the three-dimensional peaks, valleys and structures that frame the movement. Hours and minutes are indicated by a central earpiece in polished steel, bent by hand to fit the sapphire crystal dome above. The hands tell the time via twelve small, luminescent quadrangular components attached to the edge of the inner case. Small sub-dials appear to float on a cylinder near eight o’clock, dominated by a large red triangle that is the running seconds display.
I’m also delighted to see the return of the three-legged support bridge with this new watch, which supports the central earpiece and provides the necessary visual weight to accentuate the contrast between the watch’s main timekeeping capabilities and the fast-spinning tourbillon directly below it. This triple bridge used to carry the central earpiece was once a signature visual element of Greubel Forsey, but over time it has more or less disappeared from the series, with the exception of the Balancier contemporary released today and soon to be discontinued. . However, as with many of Greubel Forsey’s timepieces, the tourbillon is always the main attraction.
speeding and leaning The regulating organ used in the new best price watches is identified by its name: Tourbillon 24 Secondes. First launched in 2007, it was one of the earliest achievements under the Greubel Forsey brand, following the release of the original Double Tourbillon 30° watch in 2004 by Greubel Forsey. (Greubel Forsey) started their brand with that.
As its name suggests, the 24-second tourbillon moves much faster than a normal tourbillon, completing a full revolution every 24 seconds instead of 60. Not only is it fast, the tourbillon mechanism is also slightly tilted, tilted at a constant 25-degree inclination relative to the vertical axis. As we all know, the tourbillon consists of a cage containing the balance, hairspring and escapement, and is constantly rotating to prevent the adverse effects of gravity on isochronism. It was originally developed for pocket watches by Abraham-Louis Breguet more than 220 years ago, so today it is easy to dismiss the tourbillon as a superfluous addition to modern wristwatches. However, Greubel Forsey has always believed that the tourbillon can have a real impact on the precision of the watch. The tourbillon just needs to be adjusted or manipulated in some form or fashion. This is the basic principle on which the company has been built since its inception.
The concept behind the tilting 24-second tourbillon is actually relatively simple. The team at Greubel Forsey determined that by running the tourbillon at a higher speed and at a slight inclination, many of the most prominent problems of changing position of the regulating components could be eliminated. It is true – if the tourbillon is placed at a slight angle, it will not be pushed to the same height as if it were placed vertically or horizontally. By running at a faster speed, any individual tuning component reduces the time spent in positions where gravity can negatively affect speed. (Other watchmakers have experimented with tilting balances and tourbillons over the years, but none have perfected it quite like Greubel Forsey.)
The tourbillon is held at six o’clock by a massive bifurcated titanium bridge that has a beautiful smooth mirror finish with absolutely no harsh lines or angles. Greubel Forsey told me it takes up to 15 hours to hand polish a bridge of this style. A second, larger fork-shaped bridge with the same relaxed polished finish supports the mainspring barrel in the upper left corner of the dial. The way those bridges rise over the rest of the moving parts almost reminds me of pinball bumpers; I can imagine a little metal ball tipping around the rest of the movement. The barrel is hidden behind the cover, but what makes this part of the watch so bulky is the fact that there are a total of three series-coupled barrels stacked underneath,
This leads to the final function of the tourbillon’s 24-second structure, the power-reserve display. Hidden in plain sight, it sits near three o’clock and is supported by its own free-standing titanium slab bridge. The red triangles indicate the remaining operating autonomy on the scale on the lower cone. top quality watches
Every aspect of the tourbillon’s 24-second construction has been intensively and extensively decorated by hand. Those bridges for the tourbillon and mainspring barrel? I have no doubt that someone has spent days polishing titanium to achieve the full finish. The Tourbillon 24 Secondes Architecture is like many Greubel Forsey watches, no matter where you look on the dial, it can be studied and scrutinized with a magnifying glass. I found myself drawn to the dichotomous finish used for the upper right bridge of the watch. The transition from polished black to frosted bridges is unexpectedly dramatic, and I couldn’t help but soak up the details of it all.
Flip the watch over and Greubel Forsey has rendered the back of the movement in his typically simple fashion, except it now has a more futuristic look to better match the rest of the tourbillon’s 24-second architecture. The main visible bridges on this side of the watch are heavily brushed, providing an understated contrast to the veritable horological cityscape on the dial side, but there’s still plenty of magic in the details. I counted at least 18 exterior and interior corners throughout the caseback view.
it’s all about construction The Tourbillon 24 Seconds structure is made up of hundreds of tiny parts and assemblies, each intricately designed, machined and engineered to fit and work together. Their only goal is to represent the passage of time as precisely as possible. How this is achieved is entirely up to the ingenuity of each watchmaker, and many prefer to hide their horological creativity with traditional dials or closed casebacks. Greubel Forsey isn’t afraid to make it all public; they know what’s worth seeing. copy watches for men
The new Luminor Due Luna, with its 38mm case and moon phase complication, showcases Panerai’s grandeur, but is more wearable and as close to a dress watch as possible
Italian luxury watchmaker Panerai has once again raised the bar with a compact, more wearable version of its popular Luminor Due collection, complete with Lunar styling. First launched in 2016, the Luminor Due timepieces are robust, sporty and bold, with diameters ranging from 44mm to 47mm (there’s even a huge 50mm moonphase model). The new Luminor Due Luna 38mm timepiece is smaller in size, more elegant in hand, and fits almost any wrist.
Is it gold or copper? This is gold technology The Luminor Due Luna 38mm collection differs from its large case size, but in keeping with Panerai’s masculine beauty, it is aimed at women or men with smaller wrists. The collection is as close to a dress watch as Panerai is, with design elements that combine a moon phase complication with a smaller dial size, while still retaining the brand’s DNA.
The new Moonphase iteration comes in a 38mm case and comes in a Goldtech (Panerai’s rose gold alloy) version and three steel versions. Interestingly, only the former allows the user to see the movement through the display case back, while the other versions feature a solid steel case back. When paired with the brand’s ‘safety lock’ crown, the case is water resistant to 30 meters.
Unlike traditional gold, Panerai’s Goldtech contains copper, which gives it a rich rose gold color. The alloy also contains platinum, which protects the material from oxidation and prolongs the life of the timepiece. Unlike the standard rose gold case, the distinctive strength of Goldtech gives it a more modern side. Due Luna model PAM01181 is set in a Goldtech case with a mother-of-pearl dial and comes on a blue alligator strap with a Goldtech pin buckle.
Lume shines through the dial Three stainless steel models have sun-brushed laminated dials, one in blue and two in white. The numerals and hour markers — beige Super-LumiNova on the white dial, white on the blue version — sit on the bottom layer of the sandwich dial, while the top layer has a stencil effect that lets the luminescence shine through, revealing the indices.
The bold PAM01180 has a white dial with a deep pink alligator strap, while the PAM01301 has a Luminor Due steel bracelet matching the crown protection. A third stainless steel model, the PAM01179, completes the collection with a sunray brushed blue sandwich dial and matching blue alligator leather strap, giving the watch a monochromatic aesthetic suitable for everyday wear.
starry sky golden moon These timepieces feature a moon phase complication at three o’clock, with a 24-carat moon mounted on a rotating disc against a starry midnight sky, complemented by a small seconds subdial at nine o’clock. In all four timepieces, “Luna” – meaning “moon” in Italian – appears at six o’clock. The gold-tone hands and hour markers are coated with Super-LumiNova for excellent visibility in low-light conditions. The dial is covered with a corundum sapphire crystal, and the case back of the steel timepiece is polished stainless steel. One side of the crown is decorated with Panerai’s iconic protective bridge, adding an avant-garde design to the timepiece.
These timepieces are equipped with an easy-to-change strap mechanism, which allows the wearer to change the strap without using any tools. Panerai offers the Luminor Due satin straps, essentially leather straps that look and feel like satin, as well as alligator straps in a variety of colors to expand the wearing possibilities of the Luminor Due collection.replica Tourbillon watches
Rugged, durable, automatic, compact These watches are powered by self-winding mechanical movements with a power reserve of up to 72 hours and require no manual winding. Made with high-quality materials and sturdy construction, these novelty items are durable enough to withstand everyday wear and tear. All four versions are powered by the brand’s in-house P.900/MP movement, a flat movement measuring just 5.9mm high, with hours, minutes, seconds and moon phase modules.
The Panerai Luminor Due Luna 38mm fake men watch is a wonderful addition to the brand’s collection. They offer a new moon phase complication that is both highly accurate and easy to adjust. The dial size makes it an excellent choice for those who prefer a more compact watch with a reliable movement built in, the stainless steel case ensures durability and corrosion resistance, and a variety of dial and strap color options are available to personalize these timepieces. If you’re looking for a new formal timepiece with attitude, the Luminor Duo Luna is a great choice.
Deep-sea submersibles now use lightweight materials
The history of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms can be traced back to 1953. It is one of the first real diving watches and one of the most representative watches in the Swiss industry. For a long time, Fifty Fathoms was more than just a watch, because the series also included Bathyscaphe, which is a slightly simpler, more instrumental work. Today, Blancpain dresses this watch with new materials, adding a more sporty atmosphere to this sporty and chic watch. This is the brand new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms deep-sea submersible titanium.
We will not introduce the details of this watch too much today, because we will soon discuss this topic with our own photos and personal experience. But here is what you need to know. Bathyscaphe is part of Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms series. It was born in 1956 and is a slightly more compact and less professional piece of the series. Nevertheless, it is still a very powerful dive watch. In its modern version, compared with the classic Fifty Fathoms, it retains a more stylish and retro look. It is already available in stainless steel and ceramic versions, and titanium will soon be available. The brand first used this material in the MIL-SPEC II special series models made for the U.S. Navy bomb disposal team in the early 1960s.
Based on the larger case diameter of 43 mm, this new version of the deep-sea submersible is made of an unusual alloy, to be precise, grade 23 titanium-we will ask for more details about this rare grade. The case retains the same angular design and fully brushed treatment. Titanium provides many advantages for diving Wholesale watches, including shock resistance, compression and corrosion resistance, and of course lightness. The watch is 13.45 mm high, with sapphire crystals on the front and back, and is water-resistant to 300 meters. It is equipped with a unidirectional satin-brushed titanium bezel with brushed gray ceramic inserts and liquid metal 60-minute scale.
The titanium dial of this Blancpain Fifty Fathoms deep-sea submersible is also a new dial in the series, with an anthracite color and an unprecedented vertical brushed finish. It retains the same stick-shaped hands and geometric hour markers, filled with cream-colored Super-LumiNova. When ordering this new titanium strap, you can match it with a fabric NATO strap, a canvas strap or a new product in this series, that is, the grade 23 titanium 3-link bracelet that was first launched on the classic Fifty Fathoms.
The case of the Bathyscaphe Titanium houses the classic and powerful homemade calibre 1315. This automatic movement is equipped with no less than 3 barrels and can store up to 120 hours of power reserve. It is equipped with antimagnetic silicon hairspring, and is decorated with snail-shaped and chamfered bridges, as well as sandblasted, satin-finished and snail-shaped gold oscillating weights. Blancpain fake
Technical specifications-Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Submarine Titanium 43 mm Case: diameter 43 mm x 13.45 mm high-grade 23 satin-finished titanium case-unidirectional satin-finished titanium bezel with brushed gray ceramic inserts and liquid metal 60-minute scale-sapphire crystal front and back cover- Screw-in crown and case back–300 meters water resistance Dial: Anthracite dial, vertical satin finish, three-dimensional hour markers and hands with Super-LumiNova coating Movement: Calibre 1315, internal-automatic with central rotor-30.60 mm x 5.65 mm-35 jewels-227 components-120 hours power reserve on three barrels-28,800 cycles/hour-antimagnetic silicon hairspring-hours, Minutes, seconds and date Bracelet/Bracelet: Can be used on a brand new 3-link 23-level satin-finished titanium bracelet with folding clasp or textile NATO strap or canvas strap References: 5000-1210-98S-Titanium strap 5000-1210-G52A-Canvas strap 5000-1210-NAGA-NATO strap
