Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie – Haute Horlogerie and the best innovations

zelin0802

The Grande and Petite Sonnerie have a special place in the world of Haute Horlogerie. Only a handful of watchmakers are able to manufacture (and present in their catalogs) such works of art, often regarded as the pinnacle of complex watchmaking. Robert Greubel and Stephen Forsey had been thinking about this major move for years, beginning an 11-year research and development effort that culminated in their own interpretation of the complication, which A “self-contained” creation is undoubtedly one of the highlights of SIHH 2017.

The Grande Sonnerie is one of the most complex watch mechanisms (for more on chiming watches, read our Technical Viewpoint). Both the grande sonnerie and the petite sonnerie strike the time and quarters at the same time, but only the grande sonnerie repeats the time every quarter of an hour. Not surprisingly, Greubel Forsey’s interpretation of this complication – the dynamic duo’s first striking watch – is unlike any other in the history of horology: it is a A masterpiece, with a super-complex movement composed of 855 parts (with several noteworthy innovations), first-class craftsmanship, excellent acoustics and unparalleled Greubel Forsey style.

The GreubelFors Grande Sonnerie is equipped with mode selectors GS (Grand Sonnerie), PS (Small Sonnerie) and SL (Silent), all operated by a pusher at 4 o’clock. It is also a minute repeater, able to tell the time by pressing a button in the crown. In such mechanisms, the management of functionality and power is crucial so that all parts can interact simultaneously and tell the time perfectly, while managing energy consumption. The movement is powered by two energy sources: the first energy source is used for the chronograph part of the movement, with two coaxial series quick-rotating barrels (one of which has a sliding spring – 72 hours power reserve).

Although the Review fashion watch is water resistant to 30m, the sound quality of the chime is excellent, loud and pure. The case is made of titanium, which has good resonance properties. The hammer strikes the steel gong of the cathedral. The silent governor eliminates any unsightly background noise. The chimes are optimized without pauses, eliminating the usually perceptible tiny silence between the chimes of the hours and minutes.

Another notable and useful feat is the addition of 11 safety features. For example, when the timekeeping is in progress, the time setting is disconnected, and the timekeeping cannot be sounded during the time setting. In fact, striking watches need to be handled with care, as improper handling can damage the movement… and repairing such a mechanism is a long and complicated process (the assembly of the movement takes months)!

To enhance the timekeeping performance of the watch, Greubel Forsey added a 24-second tilting tourbillon to its impressive Grande Sonnerie. Of course, it’s up to the standard you’d expect from a brand: 86 perfectly handcrafted parts, weighing just 0.37 grams in total, light alloy cage struts, titanium cage bridges, gold counterweights, variable inertia pendulum with gold screws Wheel, hairspring with Philips terminal curve and Geneva-style studs…running at 21,600 vibrations/hour, inclined at 25° angle, and making one revolution every 24 seconds.

In traditional luxury Greubel Forsey style, the multi-layered black dial shows the hours and minutes by the brand’s skeletonized gold hands with arrow-shaped luminous tips. All applied indicators/markers are gold. Around the dial, small seconds at 6.30, chronograph power reserve at 5, chiming power reserve at 2 and chime mode selector at 3. The hollow position allows easy observation of the hammer and gong.

Despite its mechanical complexity, the watch is enduring because Greubel Forsey housed all 855 parts of the movement in its signature asymmetrical case measuring 43.5 mm in diameter and 16.13 mm high (relatively compact) middle. Crafted in titanium, it features a hand-finished case and a side window that reveals the tourbillon and steel cathedral gongs.

As always, the movement finishing is top notch. Bridge in nickel silver, brushed with embossed inscriptions, micro-rotor in black finish (also with embossed inscriptions), black-polished hammers, olive dome jewel set in gold-tone rhinestones.

The Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie is fitted with a black hand-stitched alligator strap secured by a titanium folding clasp. wholesale watches replica

Technical specifications of the Greubel Forsey Grande Sonnerie

Case: 43.5mm x 16.13mm – Titanium – Front and back sapphire crystal – Sapphire side windows – 30m water resistance
Movement: 36.40 mm x 11.13 mm – Manual winding – 72 hours power reserve – 21,600 vibrations/hour – 85 jewels – Hours, minutes, small seconds, small sonnerie, minute repeater, chime mode selection, tilting tourbillon 24 Seconds, movement power reserve indicator, chiming power reserve indicator.
Strap: Hand-stitched alligator leather with titanium folding clasp

The RM 47 Tourbillon watch, armouring the watch

zelin0802

Art and spirituality merge into one. As an aesthetic masterpiece that pays tribute to Japanese culture, the RM 47 Tourbillon watch is amazingly presented after nearly four years of careful consideration and careful design. This ingenious, artistic watch is equipped with a movement that is compact and compact and designed to make room for samurai armor.

• Originating from the spirit and values ​​of Bushido
• 16 hours of craftsmanship and 9 hours of careful drawing to achieve 3N gold samurai armor carving

The birth of this watch was inspired by a heartfelt conversation between Mr. Richard Mille and his close friend, Fernando Alonso. Alonso is a two-time Formula 1 world champion and a fan of traditional Japanese art and samurai spirit.

This new replica watch breaks through the boundaries of creativity and occupies a place in Richard Mille’s watch series known for its “decorative” and “ornamental value”. The samurai armor was hand-carved by sculptor Pierre-Alain Lozeron and painted by his wife Valérie Lozeron. The samurai armor carving shows the various styles of Japanese culture passed down from generation to generation, and the moral code conveyed by the samurai spirit is still prevalent in Japanese society today. Armor in 3N gold comes to life, reminiscent of the gold leaf elements used to decorate the most sacred temples and some traditional crafts in ancient Japan.

Many of the details in the watch refer to the family crest of the Asano family, a symbol of the Japanese Bushido spirit. At the beginning of the 18th century, Asano Naganori, who was also the lord of the “Daimyo” of the family domain, was also a lord followed by the forty-seven ronin. After avenging the death of the lord, these ronin resolutely followed the lord and died. In Japan, each samurai family has its own family crest. The tourbillon decorated with the Asano family crest is located at the 6 o’clock position of the watch. This family crest composed of two intersecting eagle feathers symbolizes the strength of the battle and the authority of the lord, and is also finely engraved on the winglet of the samurai helmet. The crown is made of titanium, Carbon TPT® and polished 3N gold, and features a Japanese maple leaf pattern. The maple leaf symbolizes the change of seasons, beauty, grace and the shortness of life. At the bottom, two knives are engraved in their sheaths, with the blades pointing upwards for quick extraction in the face of danger. 2022 replica watches

As a dual artistic fusion of sculpture and carving, the production of samurai armor requires patience, meticulousness, dexterity and enthusiasm. “There are so many similarities between the knife and the chisel, between the sharp edge and the precise positioning of the incision of the engraver’s skill, one cannot help but think of the resonance of Bushido and the ingenuity of the craftsman,” says Pierre-Alain Lozeron. After more than 16 hours of precision engraving and 9 hours of painting – it took more than a full day to create the 11 parts of the “Samurai”, which are seamlessly embedded around the RM 47 Tourbillon movement.

The samurai armor is like a guardian, providing loyal protection to the RM47 hand-wound calibre with hours and minutes display. The base plate and the hollow bridge are made of black PVD-treated grade 5 titanium alloy, an alloy commonly used in the aerospace industry, with high biocompatibility, corrosion resistance, hardness and surface flatness. This ensures that the movement runs smoothly.

The movement, case and decoration of the RM 47 watch reflect the harmonious fusion of elements. The tonneau case consists of three parts, including a 3N gold middle case, a black TZP ceramic bezel and a case back. With its outstanding aesthetic expression, the RM 47 Tourbillon evokes the spirit and connotation of Bushido, symbolizing a persistent pursuit of excellence and a respect for tradition.

New: Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G

zelin0802

Patek Philippe copy has launched the new Ref in its iconic Calatrava collection. Made of 5226G white gold, new textured dial and case sides with guilloché de Paris studs.

A new Calatrava is usually a warm welcome to the collection. Last year, Patek Philippe launched the Ref. 6119 with surprising success, as it brought the Clou de Paris bezel back to the collection. This year, the new Calatrava comes in white gold, but features a self-winding Calibre 26-330 SC with sweep seconds, date and hack seconds.

The main difference from the Calibre 30-255PS used in Ref. 6119 is that this movement has a date mechanism and the seconds hand is a centrally mounted sweep hand instead of an auxiliary seconds hand in the sub-dial at 6 o’clock.

Patek Philippe Calibre 26-330 SC.
But the sport is not entirely new. The dial is now a textured dial, made on a printing press, with a gradient from charcoal grey to black around the edges. The hands are less classic, but probably a more modern syringe shape with a luminous coating, while the hands of the Ref.6119 are very classic Dauphine shapes without luminous.

Patek Philippe, textured dial of PP-5226G.
And, of course, the studded Paris motif engraved on the side of the case. This new design treats the lugs as extensions and integrates with the case backsplash. The case is a “just right” 40mm, slightly higher than the 39mm of the Ref.6119.

Patek Philippe, PP-5226G, showing the Paris studs on the side of the case.
These two features also apply to the new Ref. 5326G calendar time, we regard these two watches as siblings. Of course, the 5326 is very useful in combining the annual calendar with Patek Philippe’s excellent two-time-zone implementation, while the 5226 is time-only, with a date. As we said in our review of the 5320, the look is determined to be more modern (albeit inspired by vintage cameras) and likely aimed at a younger demographic than traditional Patek Philippe customers. Although, in fact, the design may be timeless and appreciated by children of all ages.

Calatrava new in contemporary retro style with guilloche de Paris decoration

Patek Philippe is unique not only in its creative and technical mastery of movements, but also in its creativity in cases and dials. The latest addition to the Calatrava collection, the new white gold Reference 5226G-001, perfectly exemplifies the pursuit of excellence in all areas of watchmaking.

Based on the round, streamlined case shape that has made Calatrava models famous since 1932, Patek Philippe has reworked its flanks with guilloche de Paris (nail pattern) on both sides – a The pattern symbolizes the year 2021 in the 2021 Calatrava Clous de Paris Reference 6119. To allow this guilloche pattern to run all the way around the strap, the designers also created a special case structure in which the lugs form an integral part of the case back.

The charcoal grey vintage-style dial features black gradient edges. Its slightly grainy texture is reminiscent of vintage camera bags. The dial features white gold applied numerals with a beige luminous coating, as well as a low-profile “railway” scale for the seconds hand. Hours and minutes are indicated by syringe-shaped white gold hands with beige luminous coating. The date display is displayed through an aperture at 3 o’clock, printed in beige on a black background.

This new model is powered by the self-winding 26-330 SC calibre with stop-seconds function.

The new Reference 5226G-001 comes with two interchangeable straps – one in beige calfskin with a nubuck finish and the other in black calfskin with an embossed fabric pattern and beige stitching – both made of White gold claw clasp secures.

The same case, dial and strap design is also present on the new Reference 5326G-001 with annual calendar and travel time functions.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Ref. 5226G Specifications
Calatrava with date and seconds.

dial

Charcoal grey texture, black gradient edges, gold 3D numerals, beige luminous coating
White gold barrel-shaped hands with luminous coating
case

platinum
Strap guilloche studs
Diameter: 40mm
Height: 8.53mm
Water resistant up to 30 m
Sapphire crystal case back
shoulder strap

Calfskin, Nubuck, Hand-stitched, Beige (Original)
Calfskin, Embossed Fabric Pattern, Hand-stitched, Black (Additional Strap)
claw buckle
move

Caliber 26-330 SC
automatic winding
date in aperture
sweep second
Diameter: 27mm
Height: 3.3mm
Number of parts: 212
Winding rotor: 21K gold central rotor
Frequency: 28,800 semi-oscillations/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: min. 35 hours – maximum. 45 hours

Watches & Wonders 2022 First look and reactions to Rolex, Tudor, Patek Philippe and more!

zelin0802

Watches & Wonders Geneva is in full swing right now, which means many of the world’s top luxury watch brands have just released new models for 2022. With 38 brands exhibiting, this also happens to be the first year that Watches & Wonders Geneva can exist as a live event. This is arguably the most exciting time of the year for collectors and aficionados, so here is your official review and overview of the most important new releases from Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022.

2022 New Rolex Watches

Rolex GMT-Master II reference. 126720VTNR – Stainless Steel, Black/Green Bezel
Rolex Air-King reference. 126900 – Stainless Steel
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226658 – 18k Gold
Rolex Yacht-Master 42 ref. 226659 – 18k White Gold, Falcon’s Eye Dial
New Platinum Rolex Day-Date Watch
New dial options for the Rolex Day-Date collection
New Dials for Rolex Datejust
Rolex Deepsea Sea-Dweller 136660

The biggest news for Rolex this year is the new stainless steel GMT-Master II 126720VTNR, which has a green and black bezel and a left-handed crown. However, the new Rolex Air-King 126900 also received a lot of attention, as it marked the first time the crown guard appeared on a model in the Air-King line. Other new additions to the Rolex sports watch collection include a yellow gold version of the Yacht-Master 42, a new stone dial option for the white gold model, and a slightly modified Deepsea version.

A classic part of the Rolex catalog is the new platinum Day-Date model with a fluted bezel (a first for a platinum presidential watch), as well as many new dial options for the 36mm and 40mm models. In addition, the Datejust series introduces a range of new dials, including an expansion of the fluted and palm-patterned dials introduced last year, and a new diamond-set dial for the 31mm model with a floral pattern on the face.

New Tudor 2022

Tudor Black Bay Professional Edition
Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G
Tudor Black Bay Chrono S&G
New Tudor Black Bay 31/36/39/41 S&G
The new two-tone Tudor Royal watch

Tudor’s new launches at Watches & Wonders Geneva are centered on two-tone models, this year launching new steel and gold versions of the Black Bay Chrono, Black Bay GMT and Black Bay 31/36/39/41 models, as well as the Tudor Royal’s Several new gem set versions. While the new Tudor Black Bay GMT S&G mimics the Rolex “Root Beer” GMT-Master II, arguably Tudor’s most talked-about new watch is the all-new Black Bay Pro.

The Tudor Black Bay Pro is essentially a version of the brand’s vintage Rolex Explorer II ref. 1655. The watch itself is powered by the same movement as Black Bay GMT, but it features a 39mm stainless steel case with a fixed steel bezel. Unlike the vintage Rolex models that served as its aesthetic inspiration, the new Black Bay Pro is a proper dual-hour GMT watch, and even features an independently adjustable local hour hand, just like its Black Bay GMT sibling.

New Patek Philippe Watches 2022

Patek Philippe Calatrava reference. 5226G-001
Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Reference. 5326G-001
Patek Philippe Grand Complications reference. 5320G-011
Patek Philippe Complications Reference. 5172G-010
Patek Philippe Complications Reference. 5205R-011
Patek Philippe 20~4 ref. 4910/1200A-011
Patek Philippe Grand Complications reference. 5270P-014
Patek Philippe World Time Reference. 5230P-001
Patek Philippe World Time Reference. 5231G-001
Patek Philippe World Time Reference. 7130R-014
Three questions perpetual calendar reference. 5374-300P

Many collectors thought we might see a new Nautilus watch at the Geneva Watch Fair this year, but Patek Philippe is focusing on its Calatrava collection and the World Timepiece. While some new models get new dial colors or metal changes, the new watch that gets the most attention is the all-new Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Travel Time Reference. 5326G-001.

Unlike the Patek Philippe Pilot Travel Time, which debuted in 2018, the new Annual Calendar Travel Time 5326G lacks the prominent push of its siblings for a cleaner and more streamlined aesthetic. In addition, Patek Philippe has introduced a new time-date version of the classic Calatrava model, which shares the same aesthetic as the new annual calendar travel time model, with a grainy textured grey dial, barrel hands and a smooth bezel.

New Panerai watches for 2022

Panerai Luminor Goldtech Calendario Perpetuo – PAM01269
Panerai Diving QuarantaQuattro – PAM01226
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro – PAM01229
Panerai Submersible Quaranta Quattro Carbotech – PAM01232
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Blu Profondo – PAM01289
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Grigio Roccia – PAM01288
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro eSteel Verde Smeraldo – PAM01287
Panerai Diving QuarantaQuattro Luna Rossa – PAM01391

When it comes to its annual releases, Panerai usually tends to focus on one of its collections each year, and the one that gets the most new releases at Geneva Watches & Wonders is Submersible. The new Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro model features a 44mm case made from traditional stainless steel, the brand’s recycled eSteel or its proprietary carbon-based Carbotech material.

The new 44mm Submersible model sits between the current 42mm and 47mm watches, expanding the number of options and reinforcing Panerai’s commitment to sustainable materials. Panerai’s eSteel material has the same properties as conventional stainless steel, including the same chemical behavior, physical structure and corrosion resistance. However, because the alloy is mainly composed of recycled materials, it is more sustainable than conventional steel and allows Panerai to reduce its environmental impact. https://www.moon-watch.co