Urwerk luxury watches

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Urwerk UR-105: Armored Knight
Despite the designation, the company launched the shield-shaped UR-105 in 2014, three years after the UR-110, already the sixth platform in the UR-Satellite series. The case shape (with the six slender bolt heads that connect the bezel to the case) gave the model the nickname Knight, and although it looks smaller compared to previous Urwerk timepieces, it measures 39.5 mm x 53 mm, 16.65 mm thick. With this watch, Urwerk brought back four discs with wandering hours, a central four-armed rotor moving the discs along the minute scale located at the bottom of the dial, and a hand-wound movement.

The UR-105M’s well-crafted case has two holes on the right side for viewing the power reserve indicator and the running seconds hand. On the back, a clearer 42-hour power reserve indicator, a five-year oil change indicator, and a timing trim screw find its place as the hand-wound movement does not require a twin-turbo, for the first time A fine adjustment scale is used to indicate how many seconds the rate adjustment screw is being turned fast or slow.

Early retirement of the UR-105 M replica uk watches: Urwerk released two titanium versions in 2014, the UR-105 M Iron Knight with a clean steel bezel and the Dark Night with a black AlTiN-treated steel bezel. The hand-wound Knight succumbed to turbo-automatic order in 2015.

The UR-105TA series shares a similar aesthetic, only featuring the UR-5.02 self-winding movement with a winding rate control switch on the back. The rate is regulated by twin air turbines, like the one introduced in the UR-202, visible on the back of the case, with a central three-position switch. The UR-105 TA lacks the power reserve indicator and running seconds display on the side, as there is no oil change alarm and trim controls.

Like the Urwerk, the UR-105 TA model was produced in several guises, each aptly named: Black Orange, Black Lemon, T-Rex Bronze, Clockwork Orange, and Rampage Gold. To mark Urwerk’s 20th anniversary and to relive Baumgartner and Frei’s memories of New York in 1997, the company has launched a special UR-105 CT Streamliner edition in titanium and mirror-polished steel or black PVD-coated steel, made by The UR-5.03 provides powered movement. It will be followed by the UR-105 CT Kryptonite in 2018 and the R-105 CT Maverick in 2019, then the UR-105 TTH, a limited tantalum edition, and the Last Knight in 2021.

Urwerk UR-106: Ladies First
With the UR-106, Baumgartner and Frei express their thoughts on feminine mechanical beauty, a series of timepieces aimed at women that UR-Satellite has launched since 2015. The new model is smaller at just 35mm x 49.4mm and 14.45mm thick, and has been designed accordingly. The case design and layout of the UR-106 is familiar, with the minute track at the bottom, facing the owner, and the crown at the top between the lugs. In keeping with the romantic style, the watch is powered by a new caliber UR-6.01 self-winding movement (28,800vph, 48-hour power reserve) with a moon phase indicator above the 30-minute marker on the bottom. The satellite hours are modified, but there are no additional functions, and all setting and adjustments are made via the three-position winding crown.

Several UR-106 models were produced; most notably the Flower Power, with a steel case set with diamonds and an additional animation on the dial – a flower with a large diamond in the center surrounded by three smaller ones Flowers, filling the spaces between the hour satellites. Other interpretations include the Black Lotus, a black coated case set with black diamonds, and the Black Pink, which is similar but with fluorescent pink luminous elements.

Urwerk AMC: An Absolutely Great Creation
AMC (Atomic Mechanical Control) was the creation of Baumgartner and Frei, and Urwerk’s inevitable connection to watchmaking history, as well as the avant-garde thinking of the duo, became all the more apparent. Their innovative and dare we say historic inventions won the Audacity Award at the 2019 Grand Prix de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva.

The development of the Urwerk AMC was inspired by Breguet’s “Sympathique” clock, with a built-in system that allowed the pocket replica watches sale to be set and wound automatically when placed in a special compartment of the clock. The AMC base (master clock) winds, adjusts and regulates the watch, all operations are mechanical, performed by pins and triggers. The contemporary Urwerk version sets the watch with atomic precision – to within one second in 317 years.

A total of four AMC atomic clocks and companion watches were built (very similar in design to the EMC, but with completely different inner workings), three of which were delivered to customers, and one of which is still in the possession of Urwerk, which the company intends to keep.

Urwerk UR-T8: Transformers
In 2017, Urwerk celebrated its 20th anniversary, so it was no surprise that an anniversary timepiece was released to mark the occasion. The new UR-T8 is a large deformed watch measuring 60.23mm x 48.35mm x 20.02mm with case and base. The case can be unlocked, turned over and put back in place with just a few simple operations. Thus, this precious watch is hidden from view and protected by a titanium shield with a textured surface, or returns to its main function of telling time and attracting the public.

The definitive roaming time complication of the UR-T8 is its three-armed carousel in its largest and most refined configuration. Furthermore, the self-winding UR 8.01 caliber features a pneumatically controlled winding system in which the rotating blades connected to the rotor absorb sudden and violent movements of the rotor while ensuring efficient winding. At launch, Martin Frei explained the anniversary timepiece: “Our UR-T8 is of course reminiscent of a Reverso watch; we deconstructed the concept to create a true Urwerk model. The UR-T8 features all the Features: massive crown, organically shaped sapphire crystal, tactile textured case, strong personality and recognizable visual signature.”

The first 60 watches were available in natural titanium or black PVD coating, and seven more extraordinary pieces were showcased over the next few years. In 2019, the UR-T8 Colibri and its T8 Colibri Art Knife – each one of a kind, adorned with mosaic inlays, made from hundreds of individual black lip mother-of-pearl cut into diamond shapes, sorted and arranged by hand The best reflection of light made in collaboration with the famous Italian master Emmanuel Esposito (Emmanuel Esposito) was announced. Also, that same year, Urwerk announced another partnership with engraver Johnny Dowell (aka “King Nerd”) to produce five T-8 Skull watches featuring a skull engraved on its bronze shield. Last but not least, in the year of Covid-19 in 2020, for the benefit of the Monaco Red Cross, Urwerk presents a unique UR-T8 Raptor, created exclusively for the Art in Time store in Monaco, an initiative of Karl Friedrich Scheufele Established independent watchmaker boutique. The talents of Johnny “King Nerd” Dowell were once again called upon to create this beautifully decorated model featuring two realistic raptor heads.

UR-111: Linearity, Part II
The UR-111 (2018) demonstrates yet again Urwerk’s desire to continue pushing the boundaries of what we think a mechanical watch should be. Their quirky creation, the UR-111C, has two conical displays on the front – jumping hours on the left, running digital minutes on the right – with a unique linear minute indicator in the middle, similar to what we see in the UR -CC1 King Cobra with retrograde function. As if that wasn’t enough, there’s also a digital seconds indicator at the top, which uses fiber optics to project numbers onto the face of the sapphire crystal.

Additionally, the UR-111 introduces a new way to interact with the fake moon watch. There is no traditional crown. Instead, there are several “devices” for winding and setting. A long fluted cylindrical roller is integrated into the top of the case above, parallel to the winding stem. To wind it, you have to roll the cylinder with your thumb. To set the time, you have to pull the lever on the right side of the case and turn the roller in either direction. Powered by a hand-wound movement, the UR-111 is a brilliant attempt at complex micromechanics, truly unique and a quintessential Urwerk creation, albeit without the signature satellite.

Initially, Urwerk offered 25 polished steel UR-111C watches and 25 bronze finish watches; later, UR-111C black and TT iterations were added, along with the fully engraved and unique UR-111C pistol.

Urwerk UR-100: Philosophical Dimensions
In 2019, Urwerk launched the UR-100 SpaceTime, featuring the iconic orbital hour satellite in a case shape with minute hands reminiscent of Urwerk’s first creations, the UR-101 and UR-102. Just as the first Urwerk model was inspired by a timepiece restored by Felix’s father, SpaceTime drew inspiration from a pendulum clock that Geri Baumgartner gave him. Gustave Sandoz’s clock for the 1893 Chicago World’s Fair doesn’t show the time; it shows how far the Earth has rotated at the equator. The UR-100 SpaceTime displays the distance traveled on Earth and the distance passed by Earth, as indicated by the red arrowed minute hand on the hour satellite when the 60 minute mark is passed. The indicator in the upper left corner shows the distance in kilometers based on the average speed of the Earth’s rotation at the equator, a distance of 555 kilometers traveled every 20 minutes. In the upper right corner, there is an indicator showing the distance the Earth travels around the sun, approximately 35,740 kilometers every 20 minutes.

These signs have little practical significance, but have huge philosophical implications for Urwerk’s co-founders. “Watches, for me, are philosophical. They are physical and abstract reproductions of our situation on Earth, with the dial representing the equator while in constant motion while appearing stationary to us,” lead designer Martin Fur Ray said. Master watchmaker Felix Baumgartner agrees: “We live in a universe governed by three dimensions—time, rotation and orbit—and we try to measure and master these dimensions, but the concept of space-time eludes us.”

Urwerk showed two versions at the launch, the UR-100 Iron (titanium and steel) and the UR-100 Black (titanium and steel with black DLC). The UR-100 Gold and GunMetal (2020), Electrum (2021) versions followed, and the number of variants in the range tripled with the introduction of the UR-100V model, powered by the automatic UR-12.02 movement (modified Zenith Elite base) to provide power rotor controlled by Windfänger propeller.

Urwerk UR-220: Carbon Composite Shell
Launched in 2020, the UR-220 is the successor of the UR-210 model launched in 2012 with satellite cube hour display. The UR-220 looks very much like the 210, with the same case dimensions of 43.8mm x 53.6mm, but the new watch is 3mm thinner at 14.8mm. The UR-220 uses a hand-wound movement and has no automatic winding mechanism to allow for a slimmer profile. The changes in appearance are so subdued that they are almost unrecognizable, most notably the UR-220’s two power reserve indicators on the upper part of the dial, each covering half of the 48 hours provided by a single barrel, and the split mechanism Complex, built from over 80 components.

Urwerk has a new set of digital fonts for the new watches, but even when you put the UR-210 and 220 side by side, the difference isn’t all that noticeable. The UR-220 is also equipped with an oil change indicator, activated by a pin to start counting the 39 months of operation, when due the watch needs to be serviced by a watchmaker.

The new model features a carbon composite case, a first for Urwerk, made from 81 pieces of carbon, a step away from using coated metal. All in all, the UR-220 is a very welcome and well updated version of a watch from a decade ago, with unrivaled satellite cube roaming hours and retrograde minutes.

However, Urwerk has committed to producing only 5 UR-220s per year, and so far, UR-220 All Black, SL Azimov, RG Gold and C81 versions have been released, so “cubes” are still hard to come by.

Urwerk UR-112: Freedom and Stupidity
Released in 2021, the UR-112 is another excellent addition to Urwerk’s Special Projects collection, a “laboratory that offers horological freedom and encourages folly”. The model is called the Aggregat, and the name is very apt. While precise timing functions remain an important feature and central to this creation by Baumgartner and Frei, its implementation is technically complex, requiring “almost insane precision in assembly.”

“We nicknamed this watch the Aggregat because the UR-112 brings the different elements together. We power all the displays and mechanisms of this UR-112 from a single energy source. This force is carefully distributed, some even is “recycled” so that from the digital seconds at the top of the dial to the dragging minutes and jumping hours at the opposite extreme, each display receives exactly the energy dose it needs, with nothing wasted,” Felix Baumgartner explained.

The UR-112 Aggregat can be seen as a follow-up development of the UR-111C, as the hours and minutes are displayed beneath a pair of sapphire glass cylinders, while the Aggregat is more complicated, as the hours and minutes are represented by rotating prisms. Hours are on the left, shown by four prisms with hour numerals on the sides and around a central axis, making a revolution every four hours, each prism making 12 revolutions around its axis, with the hours displayed on top of the hour. The minute indicator on the right is continuous scrolling (no jumps), the minutes are indicated by four prisms in five-minute increments, and the scale is located to the right of the minute prism for more precise readings. Interestingly, the hour prism is driven by the minutes.

You have to unlock the hinged cover by pressing the buttons on the sides of the case to see the small seconds display and power reserve information. Digital seconds are indicated by a disc under a magnifying glass in five-second increments. On the left, Urwerk has set the watch’s only 48-hour power reserve indicator to an analog display.

The UR-112 Aggregat is released in a black and GunMetal PVD coated titanium case measuring 42mm x 51mm x 16mm; the watches replica high quality is powered by the UR-13.01 self-winding movement. This was followed by UR-112 Aggregat Odyssée and Back to Black versions.

Urwerk UR-120: Split Cube
At the end of 2022, Baumgartner and Frei once again proved that every creation of Urwerk is a testament to their unwavering passion, dedication and commitment to horological innovation. UR-120 inherits the style of UR-110. Still, the recent invention retains the recognizable Urwerk look and feel, but in a case with improved ergonomics and smooth surfaces, a more dynamic display is created through divergent and connected satellite hour cube indicator movements .

Urwerk’s signature wandering hours look familiar; the satellite disc moves along the minutes zone on the right side of the case. Satellites on the minute scale indicate hours and minutes. Urwerk’s innovation is that, among other things, Urwerk should be commended for continuing to innovate its avant-garde displays, whereby each satellite consists of two cubes that sequentially split, rotate and merge to display the hours. When the Satellite Separation is turned on, it displays rectangular blocks forming a V shape, as if recreating Vulcan’s “Live long and prosper” greeting (hands up, palms forward, fingers spread apart in the middle). Since the most famous Vulcan was Spock, the UR-120 is now known as Spock.

Once separated, the two cubes rotate on their axis and merge to show the new hour, so the satellite carousel rotates on its central axis, each satellite rotates in the opposite direction, and each cube rotates on its axis – a mechanical spectacle. Gold-plated lyre-shaped springs facilitate the splitting and merging of each cube.

The UR-120 steel and titanium case measures 44mm long, 47mm wide and 15.8mm thick, and consists of two interlocking parts, equivalent to the caseback and bezel, joined by transverse screws. Additionally, the case features articulated lugs. The UR-20.01 movement powers the UR-120; the satellite structure is mounted on the reliable base movement, a Zenith Elite automatic movement with a propeller-shaped Windfänger on the rotor to regulate the winding rate. As of today, no other UR-120 versions have been released. Healthy and Longevity · Prosperity!

Felix Baumgartner and Martin Frei have formed a partnership that combines technical excellence, boundary-pushing innovation and artistic expression. Their collaboration produces timepieces that defy convention, challenge perceptions and inspire awe. Visionary replica watches sale born from their shared vision have become iconic. Baumgartner and Frei are watchmaking pioneers who dared to explore uncharted territory and consistently launched timepiece masterpieces that pushed the boundaries. Their extraordinary talent, relentless pursuit of excellence and unwavering commitment to their craft have made them trailblazers in the industry and deserve the highest acclaim. We sincerely hope we have convinced you of this.

Patek Philippe Launches Six Special Editions on the Occasion of the Tokyo 2023 “The Art of Watches” Exhibition

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Patek Philippe fake inaugurated the grand exhibition ‘The Art of Watches’ Tokyo 2023. After Dubai in 2012, Munich in 2013, London in 2015, New York in 2017 and Singapore in 2019, the renowned independent family-owned watchmaker chose Japan and Tokyo as destinations for the sixth edition of the fair.

From June 10 to June 25, 2023, the public will be able to enjoy a full range of immersive experiences and gain an in-depth understanding of the brand’s heritage, craftsmanship and behind-the-scenes operations.

“The Art of Clockwork” brings together over 500 timepieces and objects, demonstrating a wealth of different types of expertise. In particular, visitors can admire the full current collection of the manufacturer as well as rare handicrafts, including micro-painting on enamel, cloisonné enamel, hand-carving, micro-wood marquetry, hand-guilloché and gem-setting. Wholesale replica watches

The exhibition also features some 190 pieces belonging to the Patek Philippe Museum in Geneva, which were given special permission to participate in the event in Tokyo.

As the largest exhibition ever held by the manufacturer, the event simultaneously launched six limited-edition watches. Of these six new products, two make their world debut: a new self-winding quadruple complication and the first World Time watch with a date display synchronized with local time.

The quadruple complication reference 5308P-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 limited edition is a self-winding watch that combines a minute repeater, a split-seconds chronograph and an instantaneous perpetual calendar through an aperture.

The new caliber R CHR 27 PS QI movement (799 parts) is equipped with a platinum micro-rotor that increases winding power and is distinguished by two patented innovations that reduce the energy consumption associated with clutches and rattrapante hands.

Monopusher chronograph with 60-minute and 12-hour counters at 3 o’clock and 9 o’clock respectively. The split seconds hand is controlled by a pusher at 4 o’clock. The instantaneous perpetual calendar ensures that the disc advances within 30 milliseconds, in the 3 day, date and month windows, arranged along an arc, and in the leap year window, on a rose gold-plated opal dial. Buy replica Watches

The timepiece features a fully polished 42 mm platinum case and features two interchangeable case backs: one in sapphire crystal with the transfer “Patek Philippe Tokyo” and the other in solid platinum with the same engraving. Text.

World Time Reference 5330G-010 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023, limited edition, marks the introduction of a patented date display synchronized with local time – time zone selection at 12 o’clock and displayed by the central hand.

To provide this unique function, Patek Philippe has developed a new movement, the ultra-thin self-winding Caliber 240 HU C, equipped with an innovative differential system (70 parts) capable of managing the date in local time.

Fuchsia dial with hand-guilloché center. The date is displayed on the beveled flange of the dial by a glass central hand with a red tip. The name “Tokyo” appears in red on the city plate. On the 24-hour disc divided into day and night zones, a red rising sun – the national emblem of Japan – replaces the traditional sun symbol. Shopping replica watches

The case is 40 mm in diameter, made of fully polished white gold, and showcases curved, two-tier fluted lugs. Sapphire crystal case back with “Patek Philippe Tokyo” decal.

The dial of the World Time Minute Repeater Reference 5531R-014 Limited Edition Tokyo 2023 is adorned with a miniature masterpiece of rare craftsmanship – the Grand Feu cloisonné enamel decoration representing the historic Chuo Ward in central Tokyo. The name “Tokyo” appears in red on the city plate.

The self-winding caliber R 27 HU, comprising 452 parts, is housed in a 40.2 mm rose gold case with hand-guilloché “Clous de Paris” (Paris nails) on the case strap and minute repeater slider. nail) pattern.

The watch comes with two interchangeable case backs, one in sapphire crystal with the transferred inscription “Patek Philippe Tokyo” and the other in solid rose gold with the same engraving.

Completing the offering is a reinterpretation of the ladies’ Moonphase model (Ref. 7121/200G-010) and two elegant and understated new Calatrava models (Ref. 6127G-010 and 7127G-010). Discount replica watches

Is the Patek Philippe Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar 5261R really a women’s watch?

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A Feminine Look at the Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar.

During Watches & Wonders 2023, Patek Philippe copy launched a 39.9 mm rose gold Aquanaut Luce Ref. 5261R with a patented annual calendar mechanism. As the first Aquanaut to feature an annual calendar complication, Patek Philippe’s press materials firmly positioned the watch as the Aquanaut Luce, the ladies’ version of the Aquanaut line. A far cry from some of the brand’s more feminine watches of smaller sizes, muted colors and diamonds, today I’ll explain why I think the Aquanaut Luce 5261R is a great watch for women who love a big sports watch with horological content. A particularly attractive watch, but also why ignoring its appeal to men would be a huge mistake.

Patek Philippe woman
Patek Philippe is generally regarded as the supplier of the finest men’s watches in Switzerland and the pioneer of complication combinations. But that statement isn’t entirely accurate: Patek Philippe is Switzerland’s premier producer of watches for men and women, and has catered to men and women since its founding in 1839.

Don’t be misled; Patek Philippe and women’s history goes back a long way, well over a century before launching a dedicated Twenty~4 women’s collection in 1999. Files held by Patek, Czapek & Cie. show that One of the fledgling brand’s first customers was Mrs. Goscinska, who purchased three timepieces in 1839. Queen Victoria was also attracted to Patek Philippe’s creations and chose a pocket watch equipped with the brand’s innovative keyless winding system of 1851 (invented by partner Jean Adrien Philippe). Another client was Countess Koscowicz of Hungary, who commissioned the brand’s first wristwatch in 1868. Breaking with the tradition of wearing the timepiece as a pendant, she tied a gold Antoni Patek bracelet around her wrist to admire the delicate rectangular hinged case, which is set with a miniature diamond baguette movement. Interestingly, although these timepieces are beautifully decorated, they convey real horological content for women.

Entering the 20th century, in 1916, Patek Philippe launched the first women’s complication wristwatch – No. 174 603 – equipped with a sophisticated five-repeater mechanism. In 2009, it launched a women’s copy watch with built-in manual column wheel chronograph movement CH 29-535 PS (Ref. 7071, updated to Ref. 7150 in 2018). Just two years later, Ref. launched three ultra-thin high-complication women’s watches. 7000 minute repeater, Ref. 7059 monopusher split-seconds chronograph and perpetual calendar Ref. 7140.

While I appreciate gem-set and high-level craftsmanship watches, I am very excited about the 2018 launch of the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time 7234 ladies’ watch (see below). Not only does it boast a useful GMT complication, but the watch’s bold and unprecedented retro spirit is a breath of fresh air in a world of Amelia Earharts looking for a sporty unisex pilot’s watch with a diameter that won’t overwhelm the wrist.

Aquanaut Luce, released earlier this year, elicited exactly the same reaction. Like the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time, it avoids the stereotype of a women’s watch. With its diameter of 39.9mm, the Aquanaut Lucre Annual Calendar is the largest model in the collection and definitely stands out. All other Aquanaut Luce models currently in the collection – except the Ref. 7968 Rainbow Chronograph – are 38.8mm and 35.6mm in diameter. Interestingly, four of the nine Aquanaut Luce references are still powered by quartz, and eight are gem-set.

As the only non-diamond-set watch, the rose gold Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar perfectly interprets the Aquanaut’s sporty design. Released in 1997, Aquanaut relies heavily on the design code of Gerald Genta’s Nautilus, and is often referred to as Nautilus Jr. Aimed at the younger dot.com generation, the Aquanaut has a less complicated case, but features an eight-sided satin-brushed bezel with a stylish tropical rubber strap that complements the raised guilloché checkerboard pattern on the dial. The Aquanaut Luce for Women was added to the collection in 2004 with quartz and mechanical movements. You can read all about the origin and evolution of the Aquanaut line in our two-part series.

The case in 18k rose gold measures 39.9mm from 10 o’clock to 4 o’clock, is 10.94mm thick and has a lug-to-lug spacing of 47.35mm. To accentuate the shape of the round octagonal bezel, it is finished with a vertical satin-brushed finish and a wide polished bevel, the same finish being used throughout the case. A flat sapphire crystal sets the dial and screw-down case back, and Aquanaut’s signature crown guard sits on the crown at 3 o’clock. However, water resistance is down from the Aquanaut’s usual 120 meters to just 30 meters thanks to four recessed buttons in the case band for adjusting the calendar. Not a deal breaker given the series’ sportsmanship, but a bit disappointing.

calendar
Marking the first annual calendar in the Aquanaut collection, the new Ref. 5261 is a purebred Patek Philippe product. Invented and patented by Patek Philippe in 1996, the annual calendar complication is more robust than a perpetual calendar, more complicated than a full calendar, and only needs to be corrected once a year, at the end of the erratic February. Although this was the first annual calendar for the Aquanaut, the complication was used in the sporty Nautilus Ref. 5726.

Blue dials are a dime a dozen, but Patek Philippe has a beautiful matte blue-gray dial that pairs especially well with rose gold. Reminiscent of the sky before a storm, blue-gray is a smart choice; it’s neither masculine nor feminine, but a captivating color that appeals to both men and women. Against the background of the iconic grenade pattern on the dial, the calendar function is intuitively displayed in two horizontal sub-dials (month at 9 o’clock and weekday at 3 o’clock) and a date aperture at 6 o’clock. However, this display is different from other Patek Philippe annual calendars. This is because the annual calendar module inside the movement has been inverted, which means that the moon phase is now displayed at noon and the date at 6 o’clock.

Patek Philippe’s new automatic movement with central rotor in 21k gold – Caliber 26-330 S QA LU – based on the Caliber 26-330 launched in 2019 in the Calatrava weekly calendar (ref. 5212A), with annual calendar with moon phases module. Equipped with Patek Philippe’s patented Gryromax balance wheel and Spiromax hairspring, the vibration frequency is 28,800vph, and the power reserve is between 35 and 45 hours. The movement also features a stop-seconds function that sets the time to the nearest second. Decorated with the Patek Philippe Seal standard, the exquisite decoration can be admired through the sapphire case back. The watch comes with a matching grey-blue Aquanaut composite rubber strap with a patented rose gold folding clasp and four separate buckles.

thoughts
The Aquanaut Luce Annual Calendar is dual-faced and proudly flies a unisex flag. However, be wary of potential customers, especially women, who might consider buying it without trying it on. While the gentle curves of the case ensure the watch sits flush with the wrist and below its 10.94mm height, it’s a bit on the large side for women with slender wrists. Instead, it’s the perfect size for men who prefer a more compact watch. To give you an idea, our photos were taken on Brice’s tiny 16.5cm wrist. I have a smaller wrist at 16cm and this watch has a lot of presence, but combined with the heft of the solid gold case, that’s what I like.

Still, I’m not sure the vast majority of women will appreciate the size of this model, unless, like me, they like big, heavy unisex watches with solid horological content. It makes you wonder why Patek Philippe decided to include it in the women’s Aquanaut Luce rather than the men’s Aquanaut collection. In fact, I predict that Ref. 5261R-001 will end up appearing more on male wrists than female wrists. The 30m water resistance is a bit disappointing given the Aquanaut’s sporty allure, but for many, the annual calendar complication is worth the restriction.

TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS – PATEK PHILIPPE AQUANAUT LUCE ANNUAL CALENDAR 5261R-001
Case: 39.9mm diameter (10 o’clock to 4 o’clock orientation) x 10.94mm thick (47.35mm lug to lug, 21mm width between lugs) – 18k rose gold, brushed and polished – case strap 4 recessed buttons in the center to adjust the calendar function – sapphire crystal front and back – 30 meters water resistance
Dial: Blue-gray embossed Aquanaut motif – 18k rose gold Arabic numerals, 18k rose gold hour and minute hands and minute track markers treated with white luminescent coating – 18k white gold baton day and month hands with luminescent coating – Central seconds Pfinodal luminescent mechanism – Day of the week at 3 o’clock, month at 9 o’clock, date at 6 o’clock, moon phase display at noon
Movement: Caliber 26-330 S QA LU – Manufacture self-winding movement based on Caliber 26-330 with annual calendar module with moon phases – 30mm x 5.32mm – 319 parts, 34 jewels – 21k gold Rotor – Gyromax Balance, Spiromax Balance Spring – 28,800vph/4Hz – Power Reserve Min 35 Hours – Max 45 Hours – Stop Seconds – Patek Philippe Seal
Strap: Slate gray composite with Aquanaut pattern – Patented Patek Philippe 18k rose gold folding clasp with 4 buckles
Ref: 5261R-001

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ushio Diver SLGA023 Watch

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200-meter water resistance, +/- 10-second monthly accuracy, five-day power reserve, ceramic bezel and a dial reminiscent of the dynamic undulations of ocean waves, all wrapped in “high-strength titanium”: Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ushio Diver The SLGA023 watch really seems to have it all, and we checked it out for ourselves at Watches & Wonders 2023 to see how it fares in the metal.

In 2020, Grand Seiko launched the SLGH002, a limited-edition timepiece powered by the next-generation caliber 9SA5, and a new design language now called Evolution 9 Style. As Grand Seiko explains: “The goal of Evolution 9 is to take the best elements of Grand Seiko’s design and improve upon it in a way that respects the brand’s history and embraces the future.” Its designer, Kiyotaka Sakai, started working on it in 2017 Develop this new design code and turn the clock back to 1967, back to the original epic 44GS. Like last year, 2023 will also expand the collection with more sporty styles, Sakai added: “I see no reason why we can’t use the Evolution 9 Style approach, which is the pointer and pointer approach and the lower gravity in the center, in the The same is true in sports watches.

The 44GS from 1967 was a rather unremarkable watch – until you saw the shape. It’s as angular, cool, and distinctive as Darth Vader’s helmet, and frankly, many Grand Seiko watches from the past decade have shown a similar approach to case profile design, well before the Evolution 9 Appear. That said, the concept of the Evolution 9 is not just for a single mid-century reference, but also for more contemporary pieces (both formal and sporty). Nonetheless, Grand Seiko seems excited about the “Evo 9” case style, which features arched quarters, pronounced crown protection and faceted treatment with flat brushed upper elements and distortion-free mirrored lugs on the top and sides .

While Grand Seiko prices have been rising over the years—nearly doubling in some cases in the past five years—the quality and sophistication of the Grand Seiko Zaratsu case finishing can hardly match that of the competition, Even over the $10,000 mark. Oddly enough, the bracelet finish is not always the same, as the brand more frequently opts for full brushed bracelets without any polished links, not even the narrow links on either side of the center link. These may seem more technical and purposeful, but, when seen in metal, they rarely, if ever, match the sophistication of the watch heads, which feature smooth ceramic bezels, polished Bezel profile, crown and lug bevels. The SLGA023 is in this configuration, and we can’t help but think a little more bling on the bracelet would have been nice.

The dial of the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ushio Diver SLGA023 is as much a piece of jewelry as it is a functional part, like its case. Japan’s coastal waters are influenced by the Kuroshio Current, one of the world’s major ocean currents, and the nutrient-rich waters of the Oyashio form one of the most diverse marine areas in the world. It is the dynamic ebb and flow of these ocean currents that the Ushio dial pattern expresses – ushio means tide in Japanese (which is also a name). Grand Seiko has been mastering these crease dials for years – think fan favorites Birch and Snowflake, or the gorgeous Shosho – but with its softer, less processed and more natural patterns, this might just be the best yet one of.

The hands and hour markers of the SLGA023 are coated with LumiBrite, one of the brightest and therefore most interesting luminescent paints used on watches today. The hands are shaped differently, making them easier to distinguish and read, while the hour markers are applied and stand quite high from the plane of the dial, giving this dial its own high-end look. The high-strength titanium bezel is very wide, with blue ceramic inserts inside, and some pretty serious cutouts around its perimeter for a better grip. Only dots are illuminated on the bezel, the rest of the markings are white.

On the wrist, the SLGA023 is big — probably too big, unless you have really wide wrists. Measuring 43.8mm wide, 51.5mm lug-to-lug and 13.8mm thick, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ushio Diver SLGA023 is a chunky dive replica best watches. A decade or more ago, few people would have rolled their eyes at hearing those measurements, but, with ushio taking the big watch trend, Grand Seiko may hope to start rolling out more compact dive watches soon.

On the plus side, the SLGA023 uses all that real estate to pack some serious tech, and is actually some of the best in its class. The Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Spring Drive Ushio Diver SLGA023 is powered by a 9RA5 Spring Drive movement – to learn everything you need to know about Spring Drive’s incredible history and performance, read my post on the subject here authoritative article. The 9RA5 is the latest major development in this technology and the most powerful Spring Drive base movement to date. It is 0.8mm thinner than the 9R6 series (down from 4.2mm to just 3.4mm), but offers an extended 5-day power reserve and features an indicator at 9 o’clock on the dial. Grand Seiko claims that its one-piece center bridge gives it “significantly greater durability and higher transmission efficiency,” and that it still boasts an accuracy of +/-10 seconds per month (also known as the daily maximum tolerance +/-0.5 seconds) per day). Unfortunately, the SLGA023 comes with a solid bottom cover, so you can’t see the 9RA5 inside.

A stunning dial, a beautiful titanium case, and one of the most innovative and high-performance spring-driven movements is exactly what we’ve come to expect from a Grand Seiko. SLGA023 meets all these requirements, but still has some shortcomings. While the market for large dive cheap men watches is still huge, we’d like to see Grand Seiko shift its focus to more compact and therefore less bulky ways to enjoy all this unfiltered horological greatness.