Ulysse Nardin Launches New Freak X Gumball 3000 Limited Edition Watch

Ulysse Nardin celebrates the 25th anniversary of the Gumball 3000 with the launch of the Freak X limited edition watch designed specifically for participating drivers.

Ulysse Nardin has teamed up with Gumball 3000 to create the Freak X Gumball 3000 Limited Edition watch to commemorate the 25th anniversary of this iconic rally. Limited to 150 pieces, this automotive-inspired watch is made for those who embrace boldness and adventure when driving. Each Gumball 3000 driver can choose to have their specific team number engraved on the watch, making it a truly unique watch. The Freak X’s design is revolutionary, with no hands, no dial, and no crown, giving it a futuristic look that makes mechanics and aesthetics inseparable. The lightweight Carbonium case is paired with bright Gumball orange Super-LumiNova hour markers, giving it a rebellious energy that reflects the adrenaline-fuelled spirit of rallying.

The 2024 Gumball 3000 Rally route will take competitors through Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Malaysia, culminating in the F1 Grand Prix in Singapore. With just 150 pieces available worldwide, Ulysse Nardin’s limited edition watch is one of the most exclusive in history, giving Gumballers the chance to permanently memorialise their rally experience with a cheap swiss watches that perfectly matches their team number. Available for pre-order now through the Freak X GB3K website, it is set to become a highly sought-after collector’s item due to its links to supercars and hypercars.

What we can expect from the successor to the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711

It all started with rumors in January 2021. We’ve heard that Patek Philippe is about to discontinue its most iconic sports watch, the chronograph Nautilus 5711 (which, coincidentally, is one of the most sought after on the second-hand market). The rumors are true, as Thierry Stern announced the discontinuation of the blue dial 5711/1A-001 model introduced in 2006. But then, two things happened. First, the brand released its one-year-old farewell edition, the olive green Nautilus 5711. Of course, there’s also the Tiffany Blue 5711, only 170 of which will be produced. Now, we know that the Nautilus 5711 is definitely gone and discontinued. This is not the end of the story for the Patek Philippe Nautilus. Will there be watches to keep the legend alive…? We believe so, and that’s what we’d like to see in the new Patek Philippe Nautilus – let’s call it the 6711 for now.

Patek Philippe and its president, Thierry Stern, have recently communicated mainly through interviews with the Neue Zurich Zeitung or the New York Times. First, in February 2021, Mr. Stern announced the cessation of production of the classic blue dial Nautilus 5711/1A-001, which was launched in 2006 as a 30th anniversary model, following in the footsteps of the first Nautilus , ref. 3700. In the interview, Stern gave multiple reasons for the discontinuation of the blue 5711, including that he didn’t want one model to suddenly occupy 50% or more of our collection and dominate Patek Philippe’s image. ” and then added that “it’s not enough to make the most beautiful watches in the world.” I also have to make sure they hold their value, and rarity is one of the keys to that. This is important for customers who invest in Patek Philippe. “

In the same interview, Mr Stern also said the brand was planning to release “little surprises”. So there will be a farewell series of 5711, which will be a little different. ” And this surprise is reflected in the shape of the olive green dial Nautilus 5711/1A-014, which was produced for less than a year from April 2021 to early 2022.

Watch production is small and demand is high, a situation that only increases the popularity of the Nautilus (all colors), sending prices skyrocketing on the used market. Stern was aware of the situation, explaining before the launch that “it’s going to be another nightmare on the demand side.” But the worse situation has yet to be revealed. That’s the shape of the Tiffany Blue 5711, a watch created in collaboration with the New York retailer and jeweler to celebrate its 170th anniversary and limited to 170 pieces. We expect watches to be auction spoilers, but certainly not in the millions. Again, Thierry Stern is fully aware of the problems associated with such a launch, telling The New York Times: “I Not sure it’s a gift for them. It could be a big deal. They probably don’t realize how difficult it is to select customers.”

A watch that really needs to be replaced…
Some say the Tiffany blue and olive green versions of the Nautilus are the last of their kind…and, they don’t mean the last of the 5711 (now known to be a reality), but the last of the time-and-date Patek Philippe Nautilus . period! Well, let’s clarify the situation a little bit. In the same interview with the New York Times by Mr. Stern, when he announced the end of the Blue 5711 and the release of the Green model, the Patek Philippe president also said “We have a plan. A replacement reference. The 5711 will be quite important. It will be more important than the reference. Better. 5711. But I’m not going to say what metal today, or if it’s steel. It would be another matter, very close and logical.”

Not only did the brand’s president announce that there would be a replacement, but we inevitably put the question on the MONOCHROME table. We are well aware that Patek Philippe simply cannot kill the classic time and date Nautilus. Launched in 1976, this watch represents an important part of the brand’s modern history. It was this watch that allowed Patek Philippe to enter new markets and appeal to a different audience. This is the brand’s entry into modernity and casual sports watches. Since then, it has become a true icon of watchmaking. If not for business reasons, the Nautilus 5711 must be replaced for legacy reasons. As Stern said, this watch is a difficult product. “Stopping Nautilus was an important decision,” he said, adding that “there’s a lot of noise around this nautilus. (…) We can’t put a watch on top of the pyramid.” But he also realized that he “will always There are not enough watches for everyone on the list.”

With that in mind, discontinuing the Nautilus 5711 was certainly a complicated decision, but it also opened the door to other things. Somewhat different, but some the same – at least for us, it is likely that the new Nautilus unveiled at the 2022 Geneva Watch Fair will retain most of the elements that have made the Nautilus successful since 1976. But the biggest problem remains the material. watches luxury replica

We expect the Patek Philippe replacement for the Nautilus 5711 (and possibly the Nautilus 6711) will go in the same direction, the only difference being that we think the PP will be a bit bolder and will create a deeper evolution. Visually, the new Nautilus time and date must be consistent with previous generations. Released in 2006, the 5711 was only a slight update to the design of the original 1976 reference 3700—the most obvious difference being the circular hinge on the side of the case. Mechanically, however, the introduction of the Caliber 324 made a huge difference compared to the older JLC-based movements, and also introduced a central seconds hand. But between 1976 and 2006, production technology and movement design changed dramatically. However, between 2006 and 2022, this was not the case.

Back to possible Nautilus 6711. What we expected was a watch that was only slightly different from the 5711, at least in terms of design. The shape and proportions of the recently discontinued models are nearly perfect, and there’s no reason to drastically change them. We can probably count on tenths of a millimeter here and there, but overall the likely 6711 will be a watch that doesn’t change much. At least, that’s what we’d like to see.

The main evolution we expect to see when replacing the Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 has to do with the movement. The last version of the 5711 was equipped with an in-house Calibre 26-330 SC (replacing the 324 in 2019), equipped with a stop-seconds function. This movement is already well equipped with a Gyromax balance wheel and a Spiromax balance spring (made of Silinvar, a silicon-based material). However, this movement is known for its short power reserve, with a brand rating of “minutes. 35 hours – maximum. 45 hours.” In 2022, we can certainly expect better offerings from brands like Patek Philippe, without compromising the thinness of the movement and the watch that houses it. So we would expect a possible Nautilus 6711 to be equipped with a self-winding movement, with a power reserve of around 60 to 70 hours (if AP has done this with the 7121 calibre, certainly Patek Philippe can too).

If Patek Philippe is releasing a new version of the Nautilus time and date, we can tell you with absolute certainty one feature of the watch ahead of time…it’s about availability. Don’t expect this possible Nautilus 6711 to be a mass watch. It won’t. period!

Richard Mille RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley

A yellow circle, two oval eyes, a large upturned mouth… The smiling face drawn by Franklin Loufrani more than 50 years ago has become an established symbol in the collective consciousness. It is the embodiment of positivity, joy and sharing, and has played a major role at the heart of pop culture for generations of creatives. This leadership role was enough for Richard Mille’s team to start creating an emotion-driven copy watch that emphasized all of these values.

mechanism of smile

Around the radiant face of the smiling face, a series of miniature sculptures occupy the movement of the RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley, forming and transforming a surreal scene full of fun and enthusiasm, demonstrating a true mastery of the infinitely small. As light as it may seem, the creation of this ballet was a technical challenge of the highest order. But the dream is now a reality, with extreme attention to detail and perfection that breathes life into the veritable smile mechanism.

Bottom plate and bridges are made of grade 5 titanium
Micro-sprayed grade 5 titanium with PVD treatment provides great rigidity to the baseplate and bridges, as well as the precise surface flatness that is essential for the perfect operation of the gear train.

Grade 5 titanium is a biocompatible, highly corrosion resistant and very hard alloy that enables the gear train to operate with ease. Richard Mille RM 88 Automatic Tourbillon Smiley

The alloy is 90% grade 5 titanium, 6% aluminum and 4% vanadium. This combination further enhances the mechanical properties of the material, which explains its frequent use in the aerospace, aviation and automotive industries.

The skeletonized baseplates and bridges undergo intensive and complete verification testing to optimize their resistance capabilities.

On top of the Microblasted ARCAP® Additional Motion Work Bridge, a striking gold smiley figure, microblasted and painted, dominates the landscape, complete with polished corners and brushed edges. Featuring a larger iridescent pattern, hand-applied varnished to contrast with anthracite-coloured rhodium-plated, shimmering subtle reflections.

No effort has been spared in finishing, down to the tiniest detail of every element in this display. The cocktail glass consists of four parts, all of which are golden. Umbrellas, olive trees (1.7mm high), fluted straw 0.4mm in diameter – all polished – and the glass itself, whose bottom is micro-blasted to convey its coldness, weighs just 0.4g in total. The gold flowers on it are mirror-polished, and the petals are brushed and rhodium-plated. This pink flamingo, 0.2 gram red gold, has also undergone multiple processes: its wings are polished and its feathers are depicted with the tips of a degussi millstone; its eyes are made with the smallest beading tool in existence ; its base is micro-blasted and the parts depicting grass and water are polished. The component was given a metallic pink PVD coating before the beak was painted black using a brush.

The pursuit of perfection is always there, green PVD ​​coated leaves, pineapple micro-blasted and polished surface, gold cactus micro-blasted, one-by-one polishing to remove PVD ​​​​coating, and sun, micro-blasted gold, polished rays . In keeping with watchmaking tradition, all finishing operations on the RM 88 Smiley are done by hand.

This type of balance wheel represents the pinnacle of innovation. It ensures greater reliability against shocks and during movement assembly or disassembly, resulting in better timekeeping results over time.

Adjuster indices are eliminated and more accurate and repeatable calibration is possible thanks to 4 small adjustable weights located directly on the balance.

ATZ white gold ceramic and red gold case

Such brilliant colors and sets, front and back, deserve an environment that does justice to the composition.

The design and execution of the watch demonstrates a holistic approach to the movement and case concept. Therefore, everything is built to extremely strict specifications. For example, casing rings are no longer used, and the movement is mounted on chassis-mounted rubber (ISO SW) secured by titanium screws.

The bezel and caseback are made of ATZ white ceramic. This is made from a tube of aluminium oxide powder injected under a pressure of nearly 2,000 bar. This high-pressure injection increases stiffness by 20 to 30 percent and minimizes material porosity. ATZ is known for its high scratch resistance (1,400 Vickers) and unchanging color. Second only to diamond, it is one of the hardest materials in the world. Long and difficult machining with diamond tools was required to create this perfect example of the intricately curved bezel and satin finish. Richard Mille RM 88

The strap is made of 18K 5N red gold.

The tripod case is water-resistant to 50 meters, secured by 2 nitrile O-rings. The case is assembled with 12 grade 5 titanium spline screws and 316 L stainless steel wear washers.

Panerai launches Luminor BiTempo PAM01360 and PAM01361

Minimalist dual time zone.

Traditionally a vintage-inspired “Marina Militare” diver’s watch, Panerai has recently introduced complications with minimalist, modern execution, such as the recent Luminor Perpetual Calendar.

Perhaps more practical – certainly more affordable – is the new Luminor BiTempo PAM 1360 and PAM 1361 of similar aesthetics – a GMT watch with a striking pale blue tint on a blue or black dial.

initial thought
Given its large diameter and clean dial, the Luminor can accommodate complications well, while still maintaining its typical minimalist style – if the additions are properly integrated. Panerai has done this with BiTempo, which manages to incorporate the date, second time zone and power reserve indicator without getting in the way of the recognizable Panerai aesthetic. In fact, BiTempo can deliver a time-only Luminor across the room.

That said, the second time zone isn’t a new complication to the brand – the movement is an existing one – so the novelty lies mostly in changing dial details like the enlarged date display and blue accents . While I appreciate that the light blue indicator is clear and easy to read, I find the color too muted for an understated military-inspired look.

Dual time zone
The BiTempo has a 44mm Luminor 1950 case and the iconic crown guard. The “sandwich” dial features the iconic Luminor layout with oversized Arabic numerals in the quarter, but has additional date displays, GMT and power reserve displays. Panerai copy

Thanks to the calibration, the dual time zone display is as clear as possible. P9012. The movement has a 12-hour GMT hand for the second time zone instead of the usual 24-hour hand, so there is no need for an additional 24-hour scale. And the GMT hand can be hidden under the local time hand when not in use, further enhancing the minimalism of the dial.

That said, the 12-hour clock in the second time zone means that day and night cannot be discerned from the dial, so the wearer must know this.

While the dial design is simple, the execution is slightly more complex than Panerai’s entry-level models. It has a two-piece “sandwich” construction that displays the hour markers through small holes in the dial. replica watches review

Interestingly, the dial design is slightly different from the traditional Panerai dials with printed minute scales, something that the Panerai dial tradition does not have.

Panerai has several two time zone movements in its stables, the P.9012 in BiTempo is one of the more premium movements. In addition to this, the P.9012 is powered by twin barrels that provide a three-day power reserve.

In addition to its obvious functions, the P.9012 also features a reset to zero, a countdown – when the crown is pulled to set the time, the second hand stops and immediately flies back to the 12 o’clock position, a rare usefulness in watches Function. this price range.

The movement is visible through the back of the display and has a typical Panerai aesthetic, an almost monochromatic, industrial finish with brushed brushed bridges.

Panerai Luminor BiTempo
Ref. PAM01360 (Black)
refer to. PAM01361 (blue)

Diameter: 44mm
Height: none
Material: Steel
Crystal: Sapphire
Water resistance: 300 m

Movement: P.9012
Functions: hours, minutes, countdown to zero, GMT, power reserve indication winding
: Automatic winding
Frequency: 28,800 beats/hour (4 Hz)
Power reserve: three days

Strap: Alligator leather pin buckle